Salto de Chilasco, a hidden treasure

Having a 3 day weekend at the end of July, I took the opportunity to travel and discover an hidden natural treasure of Guatemala: the Salto de Chilasco.

Know as the highest waterfall of Central America with its 133 meters high, the Salto de Chilasco is located in the Reserva Biosfera Sierra de Las Minas, two hours and a half south of Coban (Baja Verapaz)

We rented a car with my friend Lucy and headed to Ram Tzu, an ecological hotel situated close to the Biotopo Del Quetzal, on the road to Coban (km 158). From Guatemala City, it takes around 3 hours drive via El Rancho.

The hotel has 16 beautiful cabanas made in wood and a restaurant made in bamboo.  They have a private natural reserve with horses, a waterfall, an orquidea farm and coffee plantation you can discover by feet. As it was raining during most of our stay we didn't have the opportunity to see it.

On the Sunday we woke up at the sound of the birds. It's much nice than the sound of the Chicken bus which wake me up every morning in Antigua. The rain stopped us to head early to the Salto of Chilasco. But by 11 am the rain had stopped and we decided to take the chance. From Ram Tzu, you have to head south for half an hour than take a left turn on a dusty road in a bad condition. 12 km which took us an hour as we didn't have a 4x4 car. 

We arrived at a small tourism office where we received information about the hike and where to go to start the hike. We paid 30 Quetzales ($4) per person for the entrance fees and we hired a teenager for 30 Quetzales to help carrying the bag as I was with my son Logan. if you need a guide (which is not necessary but is better so not to get lost) you would have to pay the same price. 

As it had rained a lot before our arrival, the first part of the hike had some very muddy and slippery part where it was a bit difficult while carrying Logan. Then it was quite flat until we arrived at the top of the waterfalls. You can hear the sound before you see it appearing through the mist. I have seen many biggest waterfalls as Niaguara falls so off course this waterfall is not that impressive but it's beautiful and the surroundings are unique. The waterfall is located in the rainy forest so all is green and the vegetation is abundant

From the top of the waterfalls the track brings you down to its foot. They arranged well the path so it's easy to go down. If you don't want to go all the way (like us) you can go to the second view point where you can see the whole waterfall and take nice shots. By the time we arrived at the 2nd mirador it was getting late and we had to go back to the car before the night. So we decided against going all the way down and after a snack (a and a bottle of milk for Logan) we headed back. We started the hike at 12 pm and didn't bring any picnic, only a few bars of cereals, so when we get back to the car we were starving! It took us 4 hours in total, walking at a normal space and with a baby. We were all muddy and tired but happy to have seen this hidden treasure not touch yet by massive tourism. 

The Salto of Chilasco is not visited by a lot of tourists and hardly any guidebooks talk about it. This is a pitty for the community who would love to have more income from the tourism. But this is good for the nature as it stays almost untouched and you don't see garbage along the path like everywhere. The location helps to keep massive tourism away and only adventurous travelers will make the effort to visit it and will feel so bless to had the opportunity to visit such a unique place. 

Our room for the night

View from our room

The restaurant all in bambu

Going down to the waterfall

First view of the waterfall

Biotopo Del Quetzal, a natural sanctuary

The humidity and greenness greet the tourists at the Biotopo Del Quetzal, where the breeze, the sound of waterfalls and streams become your eternal companions.

The uphill paths in zigzag require any visitor to stop frequently. Some for taking gulps of oxygen to allow them to continue the climb. Others, to look at the sky and the big trees that stand over their heads. The remote hope of seeing the flight of the green bird does not abandon the walkers, even if it is only an illusion.

Biotopo Mario Dary Rivera, or Biotopo Del Quetzal, as mostly known, is a destination for all travelers visiting the departments of Alta and Baja Verapaz. The park of 17 000 hectares, washed usually by the legendary chipi-chipi (persistent drizzle) is located at the Km 160.5 along the road to Coban, Alta Verapaz, although it belongs to the municipality of Purulhá, Baja Verapaz.

The breeze and humidity you can feel during the hike is not only due to the chipi-chipi. The many large and small waterfalls and abundant streams of pure water were created to protect the national bird. The rain is latent throughout the year in the area. However, there are a few minor variations. The months of March and April are when there is less rain, while from June to September is the most precipitation. Between October and January, constant heavy drizzle is taking over the place.

The land and welcome wet grass, and as you go up, the accompanying fog and the chirping of the birds become routine of the voyage. This environment is only interrupted when, in the distance, you hear the crash of water falling over the stones to give life to a waterfall.

The Biotopo is one of the few places in Guatemala where the national bird Quetzal is still living. However, this is just one of many inhabitants of this forest. The variety of plants, saturated with water droplets, are seen everywhere. Different forms of white, black or blond warbler, and lichens, mosses, orchids, bromeliads, algae and other plants can be viewed by the tourists.

They don’t escape the eyes of the visitors, the imposing trunks of eucalyptus, oak, cypress and pine, which rise into the sky, some taller than 40 meters high. These are just some of the 50 species of trees growing in the biotopo, which is administered by the University of San Carlos, USAC.
In the park have been identified at least 58 species of fauna, although it is difficult to observe all of them. You could see the squirrels, wild rabbits, foxes, monkeys zaraguates, poisonous snakes and salamanders, among others.

For anyone wanting to know the place there are two routes, depending on your available time and your physical condition. The smallest route, called Sendero, is a journey of two kilometers which can be done in about an hour. Meanwhile, the longest, called The Mosses, is four kilometers and can be completed in three hours. The first part of both paths is steadily going up.

However, the area which both routes are crossing is just one-twentieth of the entire area of the biotopo, the rest is known as "primitive area." This area conserves the forest in its most natural state.
In this virgin area is concentrated most of the fauna of the area. Howler monkeys, coatis, car mount, wildcats and pumas and jaguars,  said Demetrio Dubon one of the guards of the Biotopo.

How to get there :

• By Car : From the capital, you have to take the Pan-American highway to the Atlantic (CA-9N) to kilometer 85, El Rancho, El Progreso. From this junction, take the national road No. 17 going to Coban, Alta Verapaz, and searching for the 160.5 kilometer. Here is the Biotopo.

• By bus : From Guatemala City, take any bus going to Coban and ask the driver to stop at the Biotopo Del Quetzal. From Coban, take any bus going to Guatemala City and ask the driver to stop at the Biotopo.

When to go :
The park is open every day from 6 am till 4 pm. Entrance fees are $2.50.

A weekend 100% Chapin: River Rafting &Tubing in Semuc Champey

The last time I went river rafting I was 21, so when I saw that the TO Descubre Guatemala was offering a rafting weekend in Semuc Champey I decided to go.

On Saturday morning, the meeting point was at 5 a.m. in front of Tikal Futura, a big shopping center in Guatemala City. When the taxi arrived late I was starting to get anxious. But living in Guatemala should have teach me that Guatemalan are never on time. We left Guatemala City at 6 a.m. on board of 2 mini buses. What a surprise when I realized I was the only foreigner, but good for me. Here I was ready to spend a weekend 100% Chapin! We were a group of 25 plus 3 guides, mostly women.

After a trip without incident, we arrived at Lanquin where we left the buses to jump on two pick up. The road between Lanquin and Semuc Champey is bad but beautiful. Being in the back of the pickup, we were able to enjoy more the view. We arrived at the hostel Las Marias and after everybody changed, we headed to the Park of Semuc Champey to refresh ourselves in the natural swimming pools. It was my third visit but the first time during the raining season and I could see the difference of the level of the water. After a late lunch, we went to discover the caves Kan’-Ba’. Their particularity? There is no light so you go with a candle. This is a unique experience of 1 ½ hour! Walking in the caves the feet in the water with only the light of the candle to guide you. You even have to swim with one hand holding the candle, climb a small waterfall with the help of a ladder, climb in and down the rocks. And finally you arrive to a large room where is the Hat of the Rey (in mud). A good place to take a group picture before heading back to the entrance. When we went out, it was night and that made our way back to the hostel even more mysterious. After changing in dry clothes, we had diner why listening to a marimba concert. But tired after a long day, we all went to bed early.

On Sunday, up at 7 a.m., we started the day by doing Tubing on the Rio Cahabon. Everybody on an inner tube floating on the river, a fun way to start the day! After a good breakfast, we jumped in the pickup to go back to Lanquin. Where we only took what we needed for the rafting and jumped in 2 other pickup for a 30 minute drive. We went to the Comunidad Saquija de Cahabon where we got ready for river rafting. We jumped on board of the 3 rafting boats after listening the instructions. My team, the survivors, was composed of 7 members plus 2 guides. The trip took us 2 hours with several rapids level III, IV and V. And between each rapid we had time to swim in the river and do some fun games. Like the one where everybody had to stand up on boat boards and walk around without falling in the water. It was a nice way to do rafting, a lot of adrenaline during the rapids and some fun time between. We arrived just when it started raining and after a 30 minute trip by car back to the Community, we had a delicious local lunch. But it was already time to head back to Lanquin, get changed (yeah dry clothes!!!) and head back to Guatemala City. Bye Bye Lanquin, we had a fun time and we’ll come back!

Fore more pictures check my album

on the road to Semuc

Champey

waterfalls in Semuc

Champey

the group















with Sonia and Ana Maria













the river Cahabon













the Survivor Team



















in the caves of Kan'-Ba'





















group pic

Get off the tourist path: Laguna de Lachua

Last January, I took the opportunity to visit Laguna de Lachua, north of Coban. I had heard about the place by a traveler friend and saw a few pictures which made me want to explore it.

Our trip started in Chisec, a small town 1 hour north of Coban. Early in the morning, my friends and I took a minibus to Playa Grande, which was supposed to drop us off in front of the Laguna de Lachua Park, which lies 2 hours North West of Chisec. But the bus got a flat tire. While we were waiting, a guy in a pickup stopped and offered us to give us a drive. Mario happened to be the owner of a big finca close to the Laguna. He ended up inviting us over  for a crème brulee (who can refuse such an invitation?) and then went to visit his finca. My friends even had a free horseback ride and felt like real cowboys!

When it was time to leave Mario’s company, it was already 2 pm and we had to wait for a while before a bus came. Through It was packed, the ayudante offered us to climb on the roof of the minibus. 30 minutes on the roof of a minivan on a bad Guatemalan road, an adventure we will never forget!

Upon arriving at the Park, we paid the 40 Quetzals entrance fee and hike the 2 km through the forest to get to the mirador, which offers a beautiful view of the lake and the surrounding area. Laguna de Lachua is renowned for being  a perfect round, pristine turquoise Lake. The colour is just amazing ! It is also amazingly deep. The deepest part, at 222 m, is a full 35 m below sea level.
Another 2 km further on we arrived to the beach where during the weekend many locals come to swim and picnic. But we didn’t have much time to enjoy the environment because the last bus was at 4 pm. So we took a few pictures and soon had to head  back to catch the bus. You can camp there for a 25 Quetzals a night. I so wish we had seen the howler monkeys and tropical birds in the early morning, so I will have to come back! We ended up having a ride in a pick up (which had a flat tire just before arriving to Chisec. Can you say bad karma?) and arrived back at Chisec for the night.

For more information, check here   .

For more pictures, check my album
































Let to right:
Mynor
Stephanie
Irene
and me!!